I bought the new bit kind of as a fluke. It was a- WTH I'll try it and see what happens, sort of thing. I have never used one before so I was taking a chance on it. The price is right and for $12 if it didn't work 1) I'm not out much and 2) I have another bit to add to the growing collection as we play the game of "Let's try this one next..."
Obviously it turned out to be a good choice since my Boss Ride post spells out how it went. But you might be thinking- Why this bit? What is the reasoning for the choice here?
As much as my friend helping me train Mazy prefers a typical plain snaffle or even a French link- my pony abhors both just the same. Mazy despises and loathes a French link. She works better in a loose ring snaffle with a thicker mouthpiece, until she puts her tongue over the bit and it all goes south. My friend L thought back to the days of her first CDE when a big name trainer called out her pony for doing the same thing- putting his tongue over the bit- and recommended a mullen mouth bit to put a stop to that shit.
She dug thru her collection an found an old Pelham she had from a different horse, long ago, far away and with a whole different set of issues. Guess what, yo? Mazy couldn't get her tongue over it and when the curb rein came into play she changed her attitude from "I'm not gonna" to a more submissive and cooperative- "Yes ma'am!" We also found a mullen mouth liverpool for driving. Since the snaffle rein option was getting used most on both bits- why not try this bit?
Another friend in the group asked how a mullen mouth bit could still be considered a snaffle? Doesn't it have to be jointed to be a snaffle? I had thought so too for what little I knew about bits until reading an article a while back about the difference between direct pressure and leverage bits.
Snaffles are in the category of direct pressure bits. Pretty straightforward- rein contact = pressure on the bit. These are your typical loose ring, eggbutt, D-ring, half and full cheek snaffle bits among others. There is no axis point, no rotation going on- what you see is what you get.
Leverage bits on the other hand... Typically there is movement on an axis point- the mouthpiece- and the bit rotates in the mouth putting pressure on the poll and the curb chain, essentially squeezing the horses jaw between the two. This would be your shanked bits- curb bits, correction bits, tom thumb, kimberwicks, pelhams, butterfly's, liverpools, and some extent of gags. Some people refer to these as go or No bits. There's not a lot of room for light pressure in between.
If you have ever wondered what it feels like, put the bit on top of your arm, curb chain/strap underneath and rotate the bit. It doesn't take near as much pressure as you would think to inflict pain. Imagine how that feels on tour horse's tender jaw?
Below is a video I seen on YouTube about choosing a bit. Quite enlightening and although it is geared more towards the English crowd, it is good information to be considered.
As one of the comments says- I like the way he chucks them over his shoulder... Lol
While entertaining and informative, he states *paraphrasing here* "A training barn should have a bunch of snaffles and otherwise mild bits in use." While many of us may agree, he also shows bits that are a bit more harsh and explains "This was used on one horse...." and sometimes explains why. He was also putting the bit & reins in experienced hands. The most severe bits can be mild in the right hands while even the most mild bits can be used harshly with severity in the wrong hands.
And for everyone pushing bitless bridles and hackamores- these too can be just as harsh and severely painful to the horse. Don't think so? The video in the following link will help explain why-
Bits, Bridles and Physiology of a Horses Head
